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Caring for your pet betta ... |
When you take your new betta home, you'll need to acclimate him (help him adjust gradually) to his new environment this way: Float him (still in his bag) in his new bowl of prepared water (see instructions below**) for 20 minutes to equalize the temperature. Then open the bag and dip out about half the water that came from the fish store (discard this water). Replace this with an equal amount of the prepared water from his new bowl. Continue to float him for another 20 minutes. Now, over a sink with the drain closed, gently pour the betta from the store bag into a net. Turn the net upside down over the new bowl of prepared water so your betta goes into his new quarters. Place your pet in a warm (75-80 degrees F), quiet place to allow him to adjust to his new home. |
Supplies to have on hand: Container -- at least a 2-quart bowl, or even larger. Short and squat is better than tall and thin. A cover is optional, but will keep your fish from jumping out. The cover should allow air to enter the container (plastic mesh or needlework canvas can be cut to fit). Water conditioner -- Some city tap water contains chloramine as well as chlorine. These both are very toxic to tropical fish, and letting the water sit out will not remove chloramine; tap water must be treated with a good conditioner, such as Aqua Safe or NovAqua. Follow the directions on the bottle. It's always a good idea to call your city water department and ask exactly what chemicals are used to treat the water supply. Aquarium salt -- Added in the proper amount, aquarium salt (not iodized table salt or salt for marine or reef tanks) aids your fish's gill function and adds electrolytes to the water. It is also handy to have on hand to treat certain fish diseases and parasites. For general water conditioning, dissolve 1/4 teaspoon in 1 gallon water. Do not add undissolved salt directly to a container holding your fish. Aquarium thermometer -- this will tell you if the temperature in your betta's bowl is staying at the proper level, which should be between 75-80 degrees F. It is most important, though, for the temperature to remain steady, even if it is a bit cooler than the ideal range. Do not locate your betta in direct sunlight or on top of an electrical appliance such as a television set. If your pet stays inactive on the bottom of the bowl with his fins clamped, he is cold; slowly raise the temperature of his water. Sudden changes in temperature can stress your betta to the point of making him deathly ill. Food -- Your fish will eat a variety of foods, including those made especially for bettas. Give him a good selection of high-quality prepared and live foods. And never overfeed him. Feed him twice a day as much as he'll eat in about 2 minutes. Remove any uneaten food from his bowl so it won't foul the water. A responsible attitude -- It will be up to you to give your betta good care so he will thrive. Now, here are some extra supplies that will make it even easier to care for your betta: *soft net (3-inch size is good), for moving him from one container to another. *turkey baster, for sucking out leftover food and/or fish poop from the bowl. *plastic measuring spoons, for measuring water conditioner, salt, medications, etc. *clean, empty gallon milk jug(s), for storing water for the next water change. *dish/bottle brush, for cleaning his bowl. *decor such as a swim-through cave or soft real or fake plants, for his (and your) entertainment. *an extra container to hold your betta while you clean his regular bowl. |
Depending on the size of your betta's container, his water should be changed anywhere from every third day to once a week (in larger bowls, water quality remains stable for longer). Remember, he's swimming around in his own toilet! **Keep on hand a jug (such as a clean milk jug or drinking water jug) of conditioned water ready for use. Make sure it is the same temperature as the water in your betta's bowl. Wash and rinse your hands good, then take your betta and his supplies to the kitchen or bathroom sink, and make sure to close or cover the drain! Dip out about a fourth of the old water from your betta's container (dip from the top of his bowl where the water is cleanest) and put it into the extra container. Set your betta's bowl down into the sink, gently net him out and then turn the net upside-down over the "holding" container, where your fish will stay while you clean his big bowl. Pour the dirty water out of his main bowl and rinse and brush the bowl thoroughly with hot tap water. Do not use soap or detergent, which are toxic to fish. Good hot water and a brush will do the job fine. If there are ornaments in the bowl, rinse them thoroughly, too, with plain hot water. Fill the clean bowl about half full with the conditioned water you have waiting in the jug. Carefully pour your betta along with the old water from his holding container into the clean bowl; do this over the sink, with the drain closed. If needed, add additional conditioned water to bring the water in the bowl to the proper level. Place your pet betta in his clean home back in their usual location. Now, wash all your fish equipment with plain, hot tap water, **refill the gallon jug(s) with tepid tap water and add the proper conditioner and aquarium salt (so it will be all ready for the next water change), and clean the sink and counter good with detergent and hot water. Wash your hands. This routine will become fast and easy for you after a few times, and your betta will thank you for his clean environment with good health and vigor. |
Making those important water changes ... |
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This page was last updated on: July 2, 2003
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NOTE: If you notice a mass of bubbles on the water's surface, don't panic because there is nothing wrong ... your male betta (and occasionally even a female) has made a bubblenest! This is perfectly normal behavior, and if you pour it out while making a water change, it's okay because he'll make another. This is what male bettas do. |
Eeek! Bettas everywhere and no room to cook! |
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